I am so excited to share with all of you about some amazing news.
 As some of you may have noticed a lot of change is happening over here.  Our farm name is getting a long over do update.  I have taken a writers position with Ogden Publications.  I was also contacted by another publication company about coming on board with them as well.  "More details once we iron out contracts"

 In farm news:
Ginger is only 6 weeks away from giving birth!  We have started raising micro greens and aquaponic lettuce.  We purchased some beehives to add to the one we have as soon as spring arrives.  Hopefully future bee products will be produced and sold here.  We will have some great homemade goat milk products available for sale soon to.  In the next few months we will be working on getting an online store up and running for the new products.  The orchard and berry patches are waiting to be expanded as soon as winter decides to vacate the area.

We are so excited about our newest members of the farm.  We have welcomed Ginger our registered bred Oberhasli goats.  She came to us from a very small breeder in Pennsylvania.  Oberhaslis came originally from Switzerland to the United States in the early 1900s.  They are most known for their gentle dispositions, unique coloring, and high butter fat content.  These amazing dairy goats produce roughly 1-1 1/2 gals of milk per day, with a butterfat content ranging from 3.5%-4%.   This Medium size goat comes in two colors chamois and rarely black.  Black females can be registered males cannot   Oberhaslis are still considered relatively rare, but are starting to pop up in goat shows around the US.  Our main goal in stepping into this breed is too produce great sweet milk and milk products.  We are also looking forward to holding a few contest for local 4-H kids, with the hope of donating 1 or 2 registered weathers each year.   

There is a lot of debate on the right way to introduce new chickens into your flock.  We have tried a few different methods over the years.  Here is what we have found to work the best.  We are lucky enough to have a few spare coops around the property.  We always start with complete confinment for a two week period, this allows us to monitor for illness.  The next step is allowing them into a closed safety run, where they can see and chat with the other birds, but no fights can commence. This stage takes a week or two normally,  Before they are ready to be let free to range with the flock. They continue to sleep in separate coops for another few weeks.  Then they are added into the large flock housing at night.  When we are dealing with babies the same steps apply just at a slower rate of time.  We have found this method to work nicely for us.  If you do not have extra housing available, you can always separate the coop into sections. We have even used children's playpens to segregate chicks of different ages.  Placing pens close to each other for safe interactions.

 Here on our farm we try very hard to be as natural as possible.  Most of our effort goes into preventative care, in the hopes of insuring natural products and animals. The number one lesson any new farmer needs to understand is clean is healthy. Your pens, houses, pastures, coops, feeders, and waterers must be maintained daily for good animal health.  Clean houses, pens, and coops help fight disease, parasites, and infections.  Making sure not only they are clean but properly vented, built well, and given prior thought to design will go along way to insuring healthy happy animals.  A poorly built or designed structure can add to higher infection rates.  By not considering space per animal and proper ventilation one will add risk of respiratory and parasite infections.  We have found weekly exams of our facilities has helped immensely in fighting against illness and injury.  We walk through the pastures looking for any down trees, rubbish, or fence repairs.  Check each structure for any needed repairs lose boards, screws, or nails popping.  Anything that may cause injury.  Check all feeders and waterers weekly to maintain repairs or replacements as needed.  The feeders and waterers are scrubbed and disinfected at this time to maintain cleanliness.  All the housing is cleaned daily here from simple pooper scooper sessions to new straw and bedding as needed.  Fresh feed and water is given daily or more often if needed.  We check all the animals three times a day for water, food, or attention needs.  The goats and cow are brushed out daily, hooves checked and maintained monthly, vaccines given annually or as needed.  The chickens and ducks are looked over and accounted for each evening.   Our poultry is given apple cider vinegar, probiotics, DE and electrolytes for over all health.  In the rare occasion an animal gets sick enough for antibiotics, they are officially retired from producing any future food products, they live out their lives as beloved pet.  We are strong believers in knowing your animals, we know instantly when someone is not feeling or acting right.  We have Dr. Dean on call ready to head out when needed.  If you don't have the time to maintain a healthy clean farm you should either downsize your animals or higher help.  Never stop learning better ways to manage and care for your animals they deserve it.

  
1. A good pair of boots can go along way around the farm.  Sloggers found its place in the hearts of women everywhere.  Choices of heights, styles, and adorable designs are sure to make finding the perfect pair extremely simple.  With great pride they have produced an amazing waterproof boot, that comes with great comfort insoles.  I love that The Sloggers Company manufactures their products right here in the USA.  The Muck Boot Company has made their name by producing strong waterproof boots that withstand the rugged country life.  Their boots offer varying degrees of insulation and are sure to satisfy any climate.  Women are a huge part of clientele for boot companies that once catered to men, but now have expanded their colors and patterns to meet the needs of a country girl.  

​

If you have a barn it's a pretty good assumption that you have a barn cat or two, or in our case three. They serve a fundamental role in homesteading, farming, or simply country life.  Ollie Wallie, Mo Mo, and Baby Kitty definitely pitch in around here and earn their keep.  They each came to us under unique circumstances. Ollie moved with us from our last home his mom was a stray that showed up at the door pregnant and hungry.  We took her and her babies in and found them all homes except Ollie who stayed with us.  Mo Mo showed up at our new house the week we moved in and he simply never left.  Baby Kitty found my husband and son in the middle of the woods while they were out hunting. The cats help in many aspects with a few standing out above the rest.  They keep the mice population down in all the out buildings, protecting the property and livestock from unwanted predators, and serve as amazing companion animals.  For all they do for us we must be diligent in taking care of their health.

I feel the most important thing you can do for your cats is to spay or neuter them.  We get this done as soon as a new cat decides to make this his home.  There are a lot of great organizations out there to help with low cost spaying and neutering for stray, feral, or barn cats.  It helps to deter the males from wondering off, fighting, and acquiring diseases.  Spaying your female cats cuts down on unwanted litters and also disease control.  We always have the cat either tattooed or their ear cropped so if they leave organizations will know they have already been fixed.  We don't want to add to the cat population problem at $15 a cat we will fix everyone that shows up.  opportunity

It is of the upmost importance that you keep them healthy. Their rabies shots need updated and treat them routinely for both round worms and tapeworms. We also look over our cats often to watch for ticks that may need removed.  We choose to use flea control during the summer months as an extra precaution.  Simply knowing your cats personality will help you spot when somethings not right.  Wether a simple splinter in the paw, abscess, or a cold it's a good idea to keep a few things in the kitty section of the animal medicine cabinet.  We keep peroxide, bitter animal wrap, tweezers, and syringe with no needle for wound care.  opportunity

We call our cats in each night before we head to bed.  It gives them a chance to sleep in the garage or outbuildings if they chose to. We find this especially important in the winter months.  It gives a great opportunity to see they are ok and that no one is missing. Even though they scavenge for lots of food its essential to give them a good quality cat food as well.   It helps them maintain high protein, vitamins, and minerals they need to survive a long healthy life.  Giving access to fresh clean water at all times is imparative. Most of all love them, show them gratitude for all the hard work they put in to the farm.  

If you own backyard chicken at some point you will be asking what killed my chicken? I hear this question a lot there are a few clues that can help to determine the culprit. With chickens being easy prey you will deal with a few of these predators along the way. Each predator will leave its own mark, wether a smell, a print, or a simple clue very few can leave without a trace. If you notice the entire chicken has gone missing and your left with only feathers or no signs at all you're dealing with a hawk, fox, or coyote. If you find a mangled or decapitated bird it's a pretty good guess its and owl. Bite marks or removal of the breast, thighs, and abdomen should point you towards opossum, skunk, or raccoon. The skunk may leave behind its all telling odor to help you in your quest for truth. Small bites taken from neck, body, and back of the neck is an indication you're dealing with a mink or weasel. The mink is known to leave behind a very distant musky smell. When baby chicks go missing your best bet is the snake, cat, or rat. Did you stumble upon one that had its rear end eaten or the intestines pulled out? You're more than likely dealing with a martin. If you know the predators that are common in your area this alone will help you narrow down your choices. Prevention is the best means to fighting off these predators. Keeping a clean dry coop will help to fight many of the culprits. Having a secure coop will save more than just a few chickens. During heavy times of migration chose to keep your birds in a safety run where the hawks can't get to them. Making sure your chickens are locked up tight each evening before dark is maybe the most important preventative. One of the biggest mistakes I see is the use of chicken wire. Chicken wire should be used to keep chickens in, not expected to keep other animals out. It is simply not strong enough to fight of most predators you are better off to use a heave gage welded wire. Even then don't expect it to keep all predators out, it will only help minimize the risk. There will always be loss but you can minimize the devastation with these few tips.

Baking Soda: This mineral is to be given free choice to your goats, to help prevent bloat and other rumen problems.
Bloat: An accumulation of gas in the rumen and reticulum, this requires medical attention asap. 
Buck (Billy): A full grown sexually matured male goat.
Buckling: A young male goat who is not sexually mature.
CDT:Vaccination given to build up antibodies against Enterotoxemia type C and D. and tetanus vaccination. 
Cud: Partly digested food returned from the first stomach (Rumen) to the mouth for further chewing.
Dehorned: A goat who has their horns removed.
Deworming: The process of removing intestinal worms by use of medication.  
Doe (Nanny): A full grown sexually matured female goat.
Doeling: A young female goat who is not sexually mature.
Free choice (Ad Libitum): Feed or supplements made available at all times so they can eat whenever and as much as it chooses.
Freshen: When a doe gives birth and begins to produce milk.
Gestation: The period in which a doe is pregnant (average 150 days).
Heat (Estrus): The period in which the doe is ready more mating.
Kid: A goat less than one year old.
Minerals:  Wether in a lick or a loose powder form a must have for all goats.  
Open: A female that is not pregnant.
Polled: A goat born with a gene that make it so they will not acquire horns.
Rumen: The first compartment of a goats stomach containing microbial population that breaks down forages and roughages.
Scours: Diarrhea.
Wether: A castrated male. 
Yearling: A male or female sheep or goat that is between 1 and 2 years of age.